Pheidole pallidula
Care Sheet
About Pheidole pallidula
Pheidole pallidula, commonly known as the Big Headed Ant, is a small yet mighty species native to Southern Europe and North Africa. Known for their dynamic colonies with distinctive major and minor workers, quick development speed and aggressive behaviour. These ants are a captivating choice for ant enthusiasts. Pheidole pallidula are highly adaptable, thriving in warm, dry environments, and showcasing remarkable teamwork in foraging and colony maintenance. They are a rewarding species for ant keepers of all levels, but be sure to have a micro-species secure nest and outworld, and a good barrier - as this species are renowned escape artists!
Nest:
Outworld:
60% - 80%
50% - 70%
Pheidole pallidula enjoy high humidity in their nest and choice of nest should reflect this
Water:
Protein:
Carbs:
Yes, access at all times.
Freshly killed feeders like mealworms or other. Chicken, Sliced ham etc
Yes, check out our byFormica Sunburst Ant Nectar. Sugar water, Honey water.
A balanced diet is key to a healthy colony.
Sizes:
Colony size:
Queen:
Nest:
Bite/ Sting:
Queen - 7-8mm
Worker - 2-4mm
Major - 6mm
Soldier - N/A
Estimate/ Average 7,000 workers a colony.
Monogyne/ One Queen per colony. Claustral (No feeding until first workers)
Acrylic, Ytong, 3D Printed, Natural Bioactive Setup. Ensure it is micro-species secure
These ants are unable to inflict any damage or pain upon us.
Queen with Brood (Upon Arrival)
Queens with brood are best kept in the test tube they arrive in. Avoid disturbing her too often, as this will help minimize stress. Keep her in a quiet, dark space at room temperature and away from vibrations.
You don’t need to feed the queen at this stage. She’ll use her stored protein reserves to care for her first set of eggs, a process known as being “fully claustral.” She is perfectly content with the water provided in the test tube. In the wild, a newly mated queen will land, shed her wings, and find shelter in a small, secluded space—just like the test tube setup you're providing. This is entirely natural and comfortable for her, as ants prefer tight, secure spaces where they can feel safe and relaxed.
Now, it's time to be patient and look forward to the arrival of your first workers!
If your queen becomes low on water reserves or you’re seeing mold form inside her test tube then I’d recommend connecting her up to another test tube that has been set up correctly.
If you need a guide on how to set up a test tube, CLICK HERE.
If you need a guide on how to move your colony into a new test tube, CLICK HERE.
Founding colonies 1-20 Workers
For colonies with fewer than 20 workers, it’s best to house them in a large test tube. During this early stage, it's crucial not to disturb the colony, as the queen may stop producing or caring for her brood. Keep vibrations, noise, and light exposure to a minimum to avoid unnecessary stress. While it’s tempting to check on them, it’s best to time your observations around feeding. This will help reduce stress and ensure your colony thrives.
If feeding becomes too challenging, you can place the test tube inside a takeaway container, which will act as an outworld, while the test tube remains the nest.
Feeding Your Colony
At this stage, your colony requires both protein and carbohydrates once a week. Always ensure they have enough water in their test tube. For carbohydrates, use a pipette to add a drop of liquid inside the test tube, no larger than the queen's head. You can add multiple drops if needed to prevent flooding. Alternatively, saturate a cotton swab or cut-off Q-tip with liquid and place it inside to eliminate drowning risks- Due to their small size, we really recommend the cotton menthod. We recommend our byFormica Sunburst Ant Nectar for a premium carbohydrate source. Three days later, provide a small amount of protein. We personally feed stock with a 1/4 of a gut-loaded mealworm, but you can also offer small pieces of chicken or ham, no larger than the size of your pinky fingernail. This amount is sufficient for a founding colony. After three days, remove any uneaten protein and add another drop of carbs. Repeat this process, adjusting the portions based on your colony's consumption. This will increase sufficiently as the colony grows and matures. Try different protein sources to discover your colony’s preferences, which may change over time.
Feeding inside a test tube can be made easier with one of our Test Tube Feeders.
A full in-depth feeding guide can be found by clicking HERE.
Ant Keeping Guides
For more Ant Keeping Guides, including detailed instructions on setting up test tubes, safely transitioning ants between test tubes, creating tub-and-tube setups, feeding your colony the right balance of protein and carbohydrates, and understanding proper heating techniques, click the button below. These guides are designed to help ant keepers of all experience levels provide the best care for their colonies while making the process as simple and stress-free as possible. Whether you're just starting out or looking to refine your skills, our resources have everything you need to ensure your ants thrive.
Small colonies
When your colony reaches around 20-50 workers and feeding becomes challenging without escapees, it’s time to add a foraging area. A cost-effective solution is using an old takeaway container. Pierce tiny holes in the lid to ensure airflow, and wash the container with soap and warm water before use. Allow it to fully dry and air out.
Next, add a barrier like PTFE or a branded ant escape prevention product (e.g., “Ant I Slip” or “Ant Escape Prevention”) around the top edge of the container to stop ants from escaping when the lid is opened. Check out our Ant Escape Prevention.
To secure the test tube inside the container, use a small ball of blu-tack or a thin layer of sandy substrate to prevent it from rolling around. Remove the cotton stopper that’s keeping the ants in. Now you can easily feed the colony using byFormica Liquid Feeders or Feeding Dishes without worrying about escapees.
Place the container in a quiet spot, free from vibrations, noise, or direct sunlight, and keep the test tube covered to help the ants stay relaxed. For a complete guide on tub-and-tube setups, CLICK HERE.
Nest Ready
For colonies of 50-100 workers, Tub and Tube setups remain a cost-effective solution. However, many prefer upgrading to a more visually appealing nest for better viewing. Pheidole pallidula is compatible with various types of nests, including ytong, acrylic, 3D-printed, or even bioactive setups with a substrate for tunneling. Pheidole as a species are renowned escape artists so be sure to keep this in mind when choosing your nest. They also love humidity and will often be spotted hanging out by your liquid feeders in the outwolld. You will also need a foraging area, commonly known as an "Outworld." Check out our Full Housing Range.
When choosing a nest, avoid opting for one too large for the colony size. A nest that’s too spacious can cause stress, as ants prefer smaller, more confined spaces. They may also use a corner for waste, leading to potential mold or mite issues. Larger colonies adapt more easily to new nests, which is why I recommend starting with a Tub and Tube setup to grow your colony to the right size for a smoother transition into a nest. As your colony matures, you’ll need to continually expand their nest and foraging area to accommodate their growing size. Be mindful that limiting their food offerings can restrict colony growth, so it’s essential to keep providing adequate nutrition unless this is your goal. As they grow, the colony will require more space and resources to thrive, so regular updates and cleaning maintenance to their housing setup will ensure long-term success.
Hibernation
Native and European ants enter hibernation around October as temperatures cool, staying dormant until March when it begins to warm up. During this period, captive ants will naturally become less active and may huddle together. To support them, you’ll need to provide artificial hibernation by keeping the colony at 10°C - 15°C.
Feeding isn’t necessary during hibernation, but the colony must always have access to water. They will also get through their seed storage during this time. You can offer small amounts of carbohydrates and protein every other month in case they wake up early but don’t worry if they don’t consume it. Gradually adjust the temperature when moving ants into or out of hibernation. For example, start by placing them in a cooler room of your home for a week before transitioning to the coldest room/hibernation location. Ensure the temperature stays around 10-15°C, and protect the colony from getting too cold by using a polystyrene box or similar if hibernating in a shed or garage.
When spring arrives, reverse the process, gradually warming their environment. Avoid sudden temperature shifts, as these can stress the colony. Observing wild ants in your area can also help you time hibernation—typically, they disappear around October and reappear in March. For a detailed guide on hibernation, CLICK HERE.
You can safely skip your colony's first hibernation if needed, but this should not become a regular practice. While the ants will naturally slow down, skipping hibernation can give them additional time for more workers to emerge, which may help ensure a stronger start in their first year. Some ant keepers choose not to hibernate their colonies at all, but this is a personal choice. It’s important to note that proper hibernation is crucial for the long-term health and success of your colony. Without this annual rest period, ants may experience shorter lifespans and decreased productivity. As your colony grows, their hibernation needs may change. Larger nests and outworlds might require more space and care to maintain proper conditions. Planning ahead for these adjustments will help your colony remain healthy and thriving year after year.
Additional Information
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