Messor barbarus Care Sheet
About Messor barbarus
Messor barbarus, commonly known as the harvester ant, is a fascinating species native to Southern Europe and North Africa. Renowned for their seed-collecting behavior, these ants store food in granaries and process seeds into a paste known as ant bread. Their unique habits and striking polymorphic workers, which include both minor and major castes, make them a favorite among ant enthusiasts and a highly rewarding species for beginners. Messor barbarus colonies thrive in warm environments and grow quickly in optimal conditions. Whether you're captivated by their industrious nature or intrigued by their dietary diversity, Messor barbarus provides a compelling and educational experience for ant keepers of all levels.
Nest:
Outworld:
50% - 70%
30% - 50%
Messor barbarus need a humidity gradient in their set up - a humid area to make their nest, and a dry area to store their seeds
Water:
Protein:
Carbs:
Yes, access at all times.
Freshly killed feeders like mealworms or other. Chicken, Sliced ham etc
Yes, check out our byFormica sunburst Ant Nectar. Sugar water, Honey water.
Seeds
Seed mixes, Dandelion seeds, Grass seed, Flaxseed, Canary seed, Sunflower hearts, Chia Seeds, Sesame seeds, Millet and others.
Sizes:
Colony size:
Queen:
Nest:
Bite/ Sting:
Queen - 14-15mm
Worker - 3mm-9mm
Major - 9mm-12mm
Soldier - N/A
Estimate/ Average 10,000 workers a colony.
Monogyne/ One Queen per colony. Claustral (No feeding until first workers)
Acrylic, Encased Ytong, Wooden, 3D Printed, Natural Bioactive Setup.
These ants are unable to inflict any damage or pain upon us.
Queen with Brood (Upon Arrival)
Queens with brood are best kept in the test tube they arrive in. If you have purchased a "Fertile Queen" out of season, she will lay her first batch of eggs in spring. Avoid disturbing her too often, as this will help minimize stress. Keep her in a quiet, dark space at room temperature and away from vibrations.
You don’t need to feed the queen at this stage. She’ll use her stored protein reserves to care for her first set of eggs, a process known as being “fully claustral.” She is perfectly content with the water provided in the test tube. In the wild, a newly mated queen will land, shed her wings, and find shelter in a small, secluded space—just like the test tube setup you're providing. This is entirely natural and comfortable for her, as ants prefer tight, secure spaces where they can feel safe and relaxed.
Now, it's time to be patient and look forward to the arrival of your first workers!
If your queen becomes low on water reserves or you’re seeing mold form inside her test tube then I’d recommend connecting her up to another test tube that has been set up correctly.
If you need a guide on how to set up a test tube, CLICK HERE.
If you need a guide on how to move your colony into a new test tube, CLICK HERE.
Founding colonies 1-20 Workers
For colonies with fewer than 20 workers, it’s best to house them in a large test tube. During this early stage, it's crucial not to disturb the colony, as the queen may stop producing or caring for her brood. Keep vibrations, noise, and light exposure to a minimum to avoid unnecessary stress. While it’s tempting to check on them, it’s best to time your observations around feeding. This will help reduce stress and ensure your colony thrives.
If feeding becomes too challenging, you can place the test tube inside a takeaway container, which will act as an outworld, while the test tube remains the nest.
Feeding Your Colony
At this stage, your colony requires both protein and carbohydrates once a week. Some people believe that harvester ants, like Messor barbarus, don't require regular protein and carbohydrates beyond their seed-based diet. However, our experience has shown positive results when supplementing their diet with additional protein sources and carbohydrates for energy. Providing accessible protein, such as small insects or protein-rich foods, can be especially beneficial for young nanitic workers, who may struggle to crack open seeds on their own. This approach supports healthy colony growth and development. Always ensure they have enough water in their test tube. Add a few seeds in the end of their test tube for them to collect and store, you should crush the seeds up while your colony is young as this will help them access the insides. Replenish seeds when needed and remove any seeds that have gone bad or gotten moldy. If the seeds germinate then try to remove them, if you cannot then do not panic, the ants are not in danger. Simply perform a test tube change as the roots of the germinated seed will drink up the water reservoir too quickly. For carbohydrates, use a pipette to add a drop of liquid inside the test tube, no larger than the queen's head. You can add multiple drops if needed to prevent flooding. Alternatively, saturate a cotton swab or cut-off Q-tip with liquid and place it inside to eliminate drowning risks. We recommend our byFormica Sunburst Ant Nectar for a premium carbohydrate source. Three days later, provide a small amount of protein. We personally feed stock with a 1/4 of a gut-loaded mealworm, but you can also offer small pieces of chicken or ham, no larger than the size of your pinky fingernail. This amount is sufficient for a founding colony. After three days, remove any uneaten protein and add another drop of carbs. Repeat this process, adjusting the portions based on your colony's consumption. This will increase sufficiently as the colony grows and matures. Try different protein sources to discover your colony’s preferences, which may change over time.
Messor barbarus require access to seeds at all times once the workers arrive, they collect and store the seeds in sections of their nests called "granaries", they chew up the seeds and create a substance called 'ant bread' which the colony feeds on. Messor barbarus will eat most seeds once the colony is larger, but in the smaller stages (pre-majors) stick to smaller seeds such as chia, sesame, poppy, grass seed and hemp seed. You can also pre-crush seeds in founding stages to give the ants some extra help in gaining access to their food
Feeding inside a test tube can be made easier with one of our Test Tube Feeders.
A full in-depth feeding guide can be found by clicking HERE.
Small colonies
When your colony reaches around 20-50 workers and feeding becomes challenging without escapees, it’s time to add a foraging area. A cost-effective solution is using an old takeaway container. Pierce tiny holes in the lid to ensure airflow, and wash the container with soap and warm water before use. Allow it to fully dry and air out.
Next, add a barrier like PTFE or a branded ant escape prevention product (e.g., “Ant I Slip” or “Ant Escape Prevention”) around the top edge of the container to stop ants from escaping when the lid is opened. Check out our Ant Escape Prevention.
To secure the test tube inside the container, use a small ball of blu-tack or a thin layer of sandy substrate to prevent it from rolling around. Remove the cotton stopper that’s keeping the ants in. Now you can easily feed the colony using byFormica Liquid Feeders or Feeding Dishes without worrying about escapees.
Place the container in a quiet spot, free from vibrations, noise, or direct sunlight, and keep the test tube covered to help the ants stay relaxed. For a complete guide on tub-and-tube setups, CLICK HERE.
Nest Ready
For colonies of 50-100 workers, Tub and Tube setups remain a cost-effective solution. However, many prefer upgrading to a more visually appealing nest for better viewing. Messor barbarus is compatible with various types of nests, including ytong, acrylic, 3D-printed, or even bioactive setups with a substrate for tunneling. If choosing a y-tong nest, make sure it is encased as they're known to chew. You will also need a foraging area, commonly known as an "Outworld." Check out our Full Housing Range.
When choosing a nest, avoid opting for one too large for the colony size. A nest that’s too spacious can cause stress, as ants prefer smaller, more confined spaces. They may also use a corner for waste, leading to potential mold or mite issues. Larger colonies adapt more easily to new nests, which is why I recommend starting with a Tub and Tube setup to grow your colony to the right size for a smoother transition into a nest. As your colony matures, you’ll need to continually expand their nest and foraging area to accommodate their growing size. Be mindful that limiting their food offerings can restrict colony growth, so it’s essential to keep providing adequate nutrition unless this is your goal. As they grow, the colony will require more space and resources to thrive, so regular updates and cleaning maintenance to their housing setup will ensure long-term success.
Hibernation
Native and European ants enter hibernation around October as temperatures cool, staying dormant until March when it begins to warm up. During this period, captive ants will naturally become less active and may huddle together. To support them, you’ll need to provide artificial hibernation by keeping the colony at 10°C - 15°C.
Feeding isn’t necessary during hibernation, but the colony must always have access to water. They will also get through their seed storage during this time. You can offer small amounts of carbohydrates and protein every other month in case they wake up early but don’t worry if they don’t consume it. Gradually adjust the temperature when moving ants into or out of hibernation. For example, start by placing them in a cooler room of your home for a week before transitioning to the coldest room/hibernation location. Ensure the temperature stays around 10-15°C, and protect the colony from getting too cold by using a polystyrene box or similar if hibernating in a shed or garage.
When spring arrives, reverse the process, gradually warming their environment. Avoid sudden temperature shifts, as these can stress the colony. Observing wild ants in your area can also help you time hibernation—typically, they disappear around October and reappear in March. For a detailed guide on hibernation, CLICK HERE.
You can safely skip your colony's first hibernation if needed, but this should not become a regular practice. While the ants will naturally slow down, skipping hibernation can give them additional time for more workers to emerge, which may help ensure a stronger start in their first year. Some ant keepers choose not to hibernate their colonies at all, but this is a personal choice. It’s important to note that proper hibernation is crucial for the long-term health and success of your colony. Without this annual rest period, ants may experience shorter lifespans and decreased productivity. As your colony grows, their hibernation needs may change. Larger nests and outworlds might require more space and care to maintain proper conditions. Planning ahead for these adjustments will help your colony remain healthy and thriving year after year.
Ant Keeping Guides
For more Ant Keeping Guides, including detailed instructions on setting up test tubes, safely transitioning ants between test tubes, creating tub-and-tube setups, feeding your colony the right balance of protein and carbohydrates, and understanding proper heating techniques, click the button below. These guides are designed to help ant keepers of all experience levels provide the best care for their colonies while making the process as simple and stress-free as possible. Whether you're just starting out or looking to refine your skills, our resources have everything you need to ensure your ants thrive.
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