Ant Keeping Guide
Hibernation
Learn how to effectively Hibernate your ant colony
Ant hibernation, or diapause, is a natural part of many ant species' life cycles, helping them survive the colder months when resources are scarce. For ant keepers, understanding and supporting this process is essential to maintaining a healthy colony. In this guide, we’ll explore why ants hibernate, how to identify whether your species requires it, and the steps to prepare and care for your ants during this critical phase.
Information
Why is hibernating important for ants?
Hibernation is a vital part of many ants’ natural life cycles, playing a key role in their health and survival. For ant keepers, understanding its importance ensures a thriving colony. Here’s why hibernation matters:
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Energy Conservation:
During hibernation, ants enter a state of reduced metabolic activity, allowing them to conserve energy when food is scarce in colder months.
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Queen Health:
Hibernation gives the queen a much-needed rest period, helping regulate her reproductive cycle and preparing her for egg-laying in spring.
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Natural Alignment:
Many species are adapted to seasonal cycles, and hibernation helps mimic the environmental conditions they would experience in the wild.
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Improved Longevity:
Hibernation supports the long-term health of the queen and workers, ensuring the colony remains stable and robust.
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Spring Readiness:
After hibernation, ants are rejuvenated and ready to focus on expansion, foraging, and brood care during the active season.
By understanding and facilitating hibernation, you can support your ants in maintaining a healthy, balanced life cycle.
How to hibernate your ants
Native and European ants typically enter hibernation around October as temperatures cool, remaining dormant until March when it begins to warm up. During this period, captive ants naturally become less active and may huddle together. To support them, you’ll need to provide artificial hibernation by keeping the colony at the temperatures specified in their care guide or product description. Feeding isn’t necessary during hibernation, but the colony should always have access to water. Harvester ants will deplete their seed storage during this time. You can offer small amounts of carbohydrates and protein every other month in case they wake up early, but don’t worry if they don’t consume it. When transitioning ants into or out of hibernation, gradually adjust the temperature. For example, place them in a cooler room of your home for a week before moving them to a colder location/ hibernation location or if they have a heat source, take them off heat and keep them at room temp for a week before moving them to a cooler room before the hibernation location. If hibernating in a shed or garage, use a polystyrene box or similar to ensure the colony doesn’t get too cold. When spring arrives, reverse the process by gradually warming their environment, and avoiding sudden temperature shifts to prevent stress. Observing wild ants in your area can also help you time hibernation, as they typically disappear around October and reappear in March.
If you're hibernating your ants in a garage or shed, I recommend purchasing a wireless wifi temp sensor. We use a brand called SwitchBot from Amazon. These handy little devices allow us to set up alerts so we get notified if our ants drop below or rise above the temps we have set.
Skipping hibernation
You can safely skip your colony's first hibernation if needed, but this should not become a regular practice. While the ants will naturally slow down, skipping hibernation can give them additional time for more workers to emerge, which may help ensure a stronger start in their first year. Some ant keepers choose not to hibernate their colonies at all, but this is a personal choice. It’s important to note that proper hibernation is crucial for the long-term health and success of your colony. Without this annual rest period, ants may experience shorter lifespans and decreased productivity. As your colony grows, their hibernation needs may change. Larger nests and outworlds might require more space and care to maintain proper conditions. Planning ahead for these adjustments will help your colony remain healthy and thriving year after year.
When Skipping hibernation, most queens and colonies will naturally slow down regardless of the temperature. If you have received your queen or colony during the hibernation period, do not force them into hibernation. Hibernate them next time around.
Does my species need hibernation?
Please read the care guide or product description to see whether your ant species needs hibernation or not and at what temperature. UK/ European ants all hibernate but their hibernating temps vary. Exotic ants do not hibernate but need a heat source all year round.
Exotic Ants
Exotic ants require a consistent heat source throughout the year, as they don’t undergo true hibernation like some native species. While some exotic ants remain active and continue to produce brood without interruption, others may slow down slightly during the colder months, but they don’t enter full dormancy. The level of activity during the winter depends largely on the species and its native climate. For instance, Camponotus nicobarensis, hailing from the warmer regions of Asia, stays active year-round, while Camponotus nicobarensis from cooler areas may experience a slight slowdown. If you notice your exotic ants becoming less active in the winter, you can help them adjust by reducing the temperature of their nest and outworld by a couple of degrees for a couple of months. This small change will allow them to naturally slow down while staying comfortable.
Example Scenario: Preparing Ant Colonies for Hibernation
As October comes to a close, it’s time to prepare my Lasius niger colony of 50 workers and Messor barbarus colony of 100 workers for hibernation.
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First, I’ve had my Messor barbarus colony on a heat source during the summer (this is optional), so I’ll remove them from the heat source for a week. For my Lasius niger, I’ll move them to a cooler room in the house that’s slightly colder than their usual location. During this time, I will continue feeding both colonies to allow them to stock up on food before winter.
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After a week, I’ll check on their behavior: if they’re still quite active, I’ll give them another week in their current locations. If they’ve started slowing down and foraging less, it’s time to prepare for hibernation.
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Now that my Messor barbarus colony has slowed down after being taken off the heat source, and my Lasius niger colony is also slowing down in the cooler room, I’ll move them to their hibernation locations. For Lasius niger, I’ll use the garage, as it stays a few degrees above freezing at all times. For Messor barbarus, I’ll use the coldest room in the house, which is the only space where I can maintain temperatures around 15°C without placing them outside, where it’s too cold.
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I’ll place the Lasius niger setup into a polystyrene box with a towel on top to protect them from extreme cold. For Messor barbarus, I’ll place them in the coolest room of the house. To monitor the temperatures, I’ll use a wireless temperature sensor from Amazon, placing it in the polystyrene box with my Lasius niger colony. I’ll be able to check the temperatures from my phone and set alerts if the temperature goes too low or too high. Since Messor barbarus don’t face the risk of freezing, I don’t need to use a temperature sensor for them.
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For the first week, I’ll continue feeding them as usual, gradually reducing their food intake after that. In the second week, I’ll skip feeding entirely. After that, I’ll offer food again, but I don’t expect them to take much, if any. As weeks progress, I’ll skip feeding for longer periods until the ants stop consuming food entirely.
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I’ll check on the colonies every two to three weeks to make sure they still have access to water. It's vital they always have water available. Midway through hibernation, I’ll offer them a small amount of food as a precaution, in case they wake up on a random warm day (though this is unlikely)
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.In January, we had a very cold night where the temperature dropped to 0°C. To protect my colonies, I added an extra towel around the Lasius niger box and moved it closer to the ground, where it tends to be a little warmer.
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As March approaches, my colonies will soon begin waking up. I’ll start checking on them every 3-7 days to see if I notice any workers foraging outside the nest. Once I spot a worker ant out foraging, I’ll begin the process of gradually bringing them out of hibernation.
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I saw a couple of Lasius niger and Messor barbarus workers foraging, so I moved the setup back inside and placed it in the coolest room of the house. Since Messor barbarus are already inside, I’ll keep them in the same room, where the temperature will naturally begin to rise with the return of sunlight. I’ll feed both colonies immediately.
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After a week of observing more foraging activity, I’ll move the colonies back onto my ant shelf, where it’s generally warmer. After another month, I’ll place the Messor barbarus colony back onto a heat source (optional). I’ll continue feeding them as usual and expect a significant population boom this year after their well-deserved rest.
Ant Keeping Guides
For more Ant Keeping Guides, including detailed instructions on setting up test tubes, safely transitioning ants between test tubes, creating tub-and-tube setups, feeding your colony the right balance of protein and carbohydrates, and understanding proper heating techniques, click the button below. These guides are designed to help ant keepers of all experience levels provide the best care for their colonies while making the process as simple and stress-free as possible. Whether you're just starting out or looking to refine your skills, our resources have everything you need to ensure your ants thrive.
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